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Know what works: The ABC of skincare actives

25.03.2025

Anyone who delves deeper into skincare will sooner or later come across the term "skincare actives "—active ingredients with targeted cosmetic effects. But what exactly distinguishes them from other ingredients? And how long does it take for the first results to become visible?

In this article, you'll learn what skincare actives do, how long they take to take effect, and how you can integrate them into your skincare routine.

What are Skincare Actives?

Skincare actives are active ingredients that have been proven to work at the cellular level. They can provide moisture, stimulate collagen production, reduce dark spots, or combat imperfections. They often form the core of a product—their concentration and quality determine the actual effect on your skin.

1. Hyaluronic acid – immediately visible freshness

Effective time: Immediately to 1 week

Hyaluronic acid is the body's own moisturizer, capable of binding up to 1,000 times its own weight in water. It visibly plumps the skin, reduces fine lines, and provides a fresh, smooth complexion – often within minutes of application. With regular use, it noticeably improves skin texture.

2. Vitamin C – radiant complexion with protective function

Vitamin C skin care
Photo: Badulescu Badulescu @Pexels

Effective time: approx. 3 weeks

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is a powerful antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals, supports collagen production, and inhibits melanin production. This makes the complexion appear more even and dark spots fade. After about three weeks of use, initial results are visible: increased radiance, less pigmentation, and a smoother complexion.

3. Vitamin E – antioxidant moisture booster

Effective time: 10–20 minutes

Vitamin E strengthens the skin barrier, protects against environmental influences, and works particularly effectively with vitamin C. Just a short time after application, it gives the skin more suppleness and protects against moisture loss. Ideal as a daily moisturizer.

4. Retinol – for deep cell renewal

Retinol effect
Photo: Karolina Grabowska @Pexels

Effective period: 8–12 weeks

Retinol (vitamin A) is considered a classic anti-aging ingredient. It stimulates cell regeneration, smoothes the skin, reduces wrinkles, and combats imperfections. However, retinol is photosensitive—therefore, it should only be used in the evening and combined with sunscreen. The first visible results usually appear after two to three months.

5. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) – for a finer skin texture

Effective time: immediate, with noticeable effect after 12 weeks

AHAs like glycolic acid have an exfoliating effect: They slough off dead skin cells, promote cell renewal, and refine pores. Ideal for dull skin, hyperpigmentation, or blemishes. Because they make the skin photosensitive, daily UV protection is essential.

6. Niacinamide – multi-talent for sensitive skin

Effective period: 8–12 weeks

Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that strengthens skin's defenses, reduces blemishes, soothes redness, and refines pores. It's particularly well-tolerated, even on sensitive or acne-prone skin. Visible results require patience—but it's worth it.

Conclusion: Active ingredients need time – and consistency

Skincare actives are highly effective – if you know how and when they work. While hyaluronic acid or vitamin E deliver immediately visible results, other active ingredients like retinol or niacinamide take several weeks to develop their full potential.

Therefore, it's important to stay consistent, choose products that suit your skin type, and combine active ingredients carefully. Because well-cared-for skin isn't a coincidence—it's the result of scientifically sound care.

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